“Oyé ! Oyé ! Winter is coming and our taste buds are rejoicing, truffle season is open”

Provence is famous all over the world for its beauty, its climate, its heritage, its terroirs, …but it has other assets, especially the truffle. Indeed, 70% of truffle production in France comes from the Luberon. It’s worth a few explanations.

What is the truffle?

The truffle is an underground fungus, invisible on the surface.

Truffles don’t grow just anywhere, they grow at the foot of certain oak trees, whose roots are mycorrhizal. The oak tree lives in symbiosis with the fungus. The tree provides the fungus with hydrocarbon substances, and in exchange, the fungus feeds the tree with minerals.

Like other crops, truffle farming depends on the vagaries of the weather. But unlike other crops that are planted, truffles are not “planted”: truffle growers plant a truffle tree, which may produce truffles, years after it has been planted. It usually takes between ten and fifteen years to harvest the first beautiful truffles, usually less if the trees are irrigated.

In the Luberon, two varieties of truffles are grown. The noblest, the tastiest, and also the most expensive: the black truffle, or “Tuber Melanosporum”. The other variety, the white summer truffle, is more subtle, lighter, also known as “Tuber Aestivum”. The aromas of the winter truffle are more powerful than those of the summer truffle.

When and how are truffles harvested?

“La rabasse”, the Provençal name for the truffle, is harvested from the end of November to March, hence its name “winter truffle”. The white summer truffle is harvested from May to August, September if the rains have been generous. They both grow in the same truffle fields.

The search for the black truffle is called digging. Once the business of muzzled pigs who sniffed out precious black diamonds, they have been replaced by dogs, more reliable, more enduring, and more mobile than pigs.

Where to go to buy truffles ?

There are many specialty stores where you can buy products from the region (olive oil, candies, tapenade, truffle derivatives, …). Among others, we recommend “La maison de la truffe et du vin” at Ménerbes. Not only you will discover excellent products based on truffle but you will enjoy a splendid village that has been awarded the label “best village in France”.

During the truffle season (typically from late November to March), various towns in Provence host truffle markets. These markets often include not only the sale of truffles but also events, tastings, and demonstrations related to truffle cultivation and cooking. The largest truffle markets are in Richerenches (on Saturday) and Carpentras (on Friday).

How to choose a good truffle?

Not all truffles are of good quality. Choosing a good truffle involves considering several factors, as truffles are highly valued for their aroma, flavor, and texture. Whether you’re purchasing truffles at a market, specialty store, or from a truffle farmer, here are some tips on how to choose a good truffle:

• Appearance: look for truffles that have a firm, unblemished surface. A quality truffle should be free from major cracks, holes, or soft spots. The color of the truffle can vary depending on the species. For black truffles, its flesh should be black, streaked with white veins.
• Aroma: a strong, pleasant aroma is a key indicator of a good truffle. The aroma should be distinctive and indicative of the truffle’s variety (black truffle, white truffle, etc.). Gently sniff the truffle, and avoid those with a weak or unpleasant scent.
• Texture: the truffle should have a solid and consistent texture. Avoid truffles that feel excessively soft or mushy. Some variability in texture is normal, but the truffle should generally feel firm to the touch.
• Size: truffles come in various sizes, and larger truffles are often more expensive. However, size is not the only factor determining quality. Consider your specific culinary needs. Smaller truffles can be more cost-effective and still provide a strong flavor.
• Moisture Content: truffles should have a certain level of moisture, but they should not be overly wet or excessively dry. A moderate moisture content is ideal. Excessively dry truffles may lack flavor, while overly wet truffles can be a sign of decay.
• Source and Freshness: whenever possible, purchase truffles from reputable sources. If you’re buying directly from a truffle farmer, inquire about the harvest date to ensure freshness.

What storage conditions?

Truffles are best when fresh, so plan to use them as soon as possible. If you need to store them, wrap them in a paper towel and place them in a sealed container in the refrigerator. Change the paper towel regularly to absorb excess moisture.

What to drink with truffles?

With truffles, we will rather choose mature wines, in order to respond to the aromatic power of the mushroom. The wine must support and transcend the aromas of the truffle, but above all not overwhelm it. The black truffle goes well with many different dishes, and of course, the pairing with the wine will depend on them. The wines of the Luberon are perfect for satisfying these different pairings.

With red meat, or when the truffle is eaten for its own sake, choose an elegant and rather woody dry red wine if possible, whose tannins will enhance it well. With white meat, eggs or fish, we will choose a great white wine with body, very evolved, full-bodied and sometimes even fatty to resist the richness of the truffle. Enjoy your tasting.